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Monitor Ridge Climbing Route
The Monitor Ridge Climbing Route is the primary route used by climbers during the summer to reach Mount St Helens Summit. It is a non-technical scramble, gaining 4,500 feet in 5 miles. Most climbers complete the round trip in 7 to 12 hours.
The climbing route used in the summer months begins at Climber's Bivouac south of the volcano. At 3,700 feet elevation, Climber's Bivouac has the highest vehicle access on Mount St. Helens. Start on Ptarmigan Trail #216A which climbs 1,100 feet in 2 1/4 miles to timberline at 4,800 feet elevation.
Above timberline, the route generally follows Monitor Ridge, climbing steeply through lava flows and loose pumice and ash. From timberline the route is marked with large wooden posts to about 7,000 feet elevation. The upper 1,300 feet of the route is unmarked and covered with loose, rock, pumice and ash. On your descent, take care to stay on route. A minor detour may put you far off route at timberline.
- Winter/early spring climbing tips
- Climbing preparation, safety and route information.
- Avalanche Forecasts (West Slopes South)
- Avalance Observations Map (West Slopes South)
⚠️ Important Alert: A dangerous cornice, an overhanging mass of snow formed by wind, grows through the winter on the leeward side of the wind exposed edge of the summit and crater. As it grows, the cornice can hang quite a distance over the edge, making it fragile and extremely dangerous to walk upon to get a view into the crater. Stay back at least 30 ft (9 m) from the visible edge. There may not be any flagging stakes or markers indicating the danger zone, so use extreme caution. The high summit drift may prevent you from having any view over the rim to the North. Always check current conditions before your climb.
Click here to read the most current climbing conditions from Mount St. Helens Institute.
At a Glance
| Current Conditions: | 03/19/2024: The Monitor Ridge Route is open. Expect snow throughout the climbing route, especially in areas below treeline and near the summit. Ice is present above the treeline along the climbing route. Ice axes and crampons are strongly recommended. Permits for climbing are required, and are self-issued at the trailhead. |
|---|---|
| Reservations: | Between April 1 & November 30 permits are limited in number and purchased online in advance. |
| Permit Info: | Climbing Permits are required year-round for each person and each day they will be traveling above 4800 ft elevation, on the slopes of Mount St. Helens.
|
| Usage: | Medium-Heavy |
| Best Season: | Summer |
| Busiest Season: | Summer |
| Closest Towns: | Cougar, WA |
| Water: | No |
| Restroom: | Vault toilet at trailhead and timberline |
| Operated By: | Forest Service |
General Information
Directions:This route begins from Climbers Bivouac off Forest Road 81-830.
From Cougar, WA take Lewis River Road/Forest Road 90 east for 6.4 miles then go left on Forest Road 83. Follow Forest Road 83 for 3 miles then stay left onto Forest Road 81 and go about a mile to Forest Spur Road 830. Go right at Forest Road 830 and drive about .4 miles to the trailhead.
Activities
Mountain Climbing
Recreation areas with activity Mountain Climbing:General Info:
General NotesIt is important for climbers of any Cascade summit to be aware of a few things:
- Climbing parties should use good judgment and take special care of weaker members and novice climbers (Always think Safety is Item Number One)
- Be prepared for treacherous slopes (steep, slick, with dangerous runouts), especially on descent, going from the basin at timberline to the crest of Monitor Ridge
- Before climbing, gain knowledge of competent use of an ice axe or ski poles on all snow slopes, and the ability to self-arrest a fall under any conditions
- Be aware of receding snow on current glissade paths higher on the Mountain, exposing rock hazards
- Stay well back from cornices that still remain along the summit rim
- Prepare for warming temperatures demanding that climbers carry three liters of water at a minimum
- Know and use proper footwear, clothing, sun protection and sunglasses!
- Prepare and carry gear for bad weather
- Carry a first aid kit and being able to use itit is important for climbers of any Cascade summit to be aware of a few things:
- Climbing parties should use good judgment and take special care of weaker members and novice climbers (Always think Safety is Item Number One)
- Be prepared for treacherous slopes (steep, slick, with dangerous runouts), especially on descent, going from the basin at timberline to the crest of Monitor Ridge
- Before climbing, gain knowledge of competent use of an ice axe or ski poles on all snow slopes, and the ability to self-arrest a fall under any conditions
- Be aware of receding snow on current glissade paths higher on the Mountain, exposing rock hazards
- Stay well back from cornices that still remain along the summit rim
- Prepare for warming temperatures demanding that climbers carry three liters of water at a minimum
- Know and use proper footwear, clothing, sun protection and sunglasses!
- Prepare and carry gear for bad weather
- Carry a first aid kit and being able to use it
Related Information
Location
