This is the longest climb of the northern approaches. Start five miles in from Artist Point Trailhead by taking Chain Lakes Trail #682 to Ptarmigan Ridge Trail #682.1. Three miles in from the Chain Lakes/Ptarmigan Ridge junction the Ptarmigan Ridge Trail reaches the base of Coleman Pinnacle. The trail continues another half mile to Camp Kiser. Beyond this point, a primitive boot path, recommended for experienced mountaineers, leads to advanced climbing routes on Mt. Baker.
The snow on this route does not melt until late in the season and the five-mile approach can be a long, difficult slog through heavy snow in steep chutes. The trek becomes less difficult but route finding becomes more so as the season progresses and the snow melts. Despite impeding snow, this route is best climbed early in the season before the glacier becomes broken up and extensively crevassed.
This route is within the Mt. Baker Wilderness.
At a Glance
Base camp is located along the Ptarmigan Ridge approach at Camp Kaiser. Some climbers camp at the Flats or the Portals, which are located at the end of the Ptarmigan Ridge Trail where the Park Glacier Route begins.
Toilets are not available on this route, please pack it out.