Mount Hood Summit

  

Mountaineer Trail

Mount Hood, Oregon's highest summit at 11,240 feet, is a dormant volcano covered with 11 active glaciers. This snow covered peak lies at the heart of Mount Hood Wilderness and is covered with forested slopes and alpine meadows. Mount Hood attracts more than 10,000 climbers a year, making Mount Hood's summit the most visited snow covered peak in America.

Climbing Mt Hood is a technical climb. There are no trails to the summit. The "easier" southside climbing route from the historic Timberline Lodge is still a technical climb with crevasses to cross, falling rocks, and often inclement weather. Ropes, crampons and other technical gear are necessary. Climbing season is generally from April to mid-June due to melting snow and rockfall hazards later in the season. Fatalities on the mountain average at least one a year. Other routes on the mountain are much more difficult.

Consider climbing mid-week to enhance your opportunity for solitude.

At a Glance

Current Conditions: Mount Hood Climbing Conditions Report  
Rentals & Guides: Mountain Locator Unit rentals:  Outfitter/guide organizations currently authorized to conduct climbing services on Mt Hood:
Permit Info:
  • A wilderness permit is required to enter  the Wilderness in the Mt. Hood National Forest from May 15 through October 15. You must have a copy of the completed permit in your possession durning your visit to the Wilderness. Permits are free and self issued at trailheads and Wilderness boundaries.
  • Climbers must have a Wilderness permit in their possession year-round when on the south side climbing route of Mt. Hood. Permits are available at the Wy'East Timberline Day Lodge.
Usage: Medium-Heavy
Best Season: Late spring and early summer
Busiest Season: Late spring and early summer
Restrictions:
Closest Towns: Sandy, OR; Hood River, OR
Passes: Some trailheads require a day use fee. View a list of available Recreation Passes that may be used in lieu of day use fee payment.
Information Center:

General Information

Directions:

The southside climbing route leaves from the historic Timberline Lodge.


General Notes:

Detailed Mount Hood Climbing Information

  • 1) Before starting out, on the climb, after the climb; 2) Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM) Coordinates; 3) When to climb; 4) Organizations that teach or guide climbing on Mount Hood; 5) What to wear/what to take; and 6) Mountain Locator Unit information.

Photos

1. South side of Mt Hood from Timberline.

South side of Mt Hood from Timberline.

2. Landmarks on the south side of Mount Hood within Mount Hood Wilderness.

Landmarks on the south side of Mount Hood within Mount Hood Wilderness.

3. June 20th, 2005  From Hogsback looking at Bergchrund and Pearly Gates.

June 20th, 2005 Picture of Bergschrund and Pearly Gates

 

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