Introduction (continued)

Well–designed trails take advantage of natural drainage features, and are low–maintenance trails that meet the needs of the user. The trail might pitch around trees and rocks, follow natural benches, and otherwise take advantage of natural land features (figure 3).

Figure 3—Design and construct your trail to fit the land.

The best trails show little evidence of the work that goes into them. A little extra effort spent widely scattering cut vegetation, blending backslopes, avoiding drill hole scars, raking leaves back over fillslopes, or restoring borrow sites pays off in a more natural–looking trail. Be a Master. Do artful trail work.

Trail Layout

There is a real art to trail layout. Some basics can be taught, but the locator must develop an "eye" for fitting the flagline to the ground. This skill can only be developed with experience. Hiking or walking cross–country does not qualify someone as a trail locator. Also there is a general assumption that a person who lays out logging roads can lay out trails. This is often not true. The road locator looks at the terrain through the eyes of a bulldozer. The trail locator must look through the eyes of a hand builder. There are many nuances to the trail flagline that don't exist with a road flagline.

Here are some steps to help you do a good job of trail layout. You will also want to look over the Forest Service Trails Management Handbook (FSH 2309.18) for lots more good information.

Planning the Route on the Map. Be certain you know the objectives of the trail—things like the intended user, desired difficulty level, and desired experience. Then go to the maps to determine a potential route.

Use topographic maps and aerial photos to map the potential route. On the map, identify potential Control Points, places where the trail has to go, where there is no choice because of:

• Termini
• Gaps or passes
• Stream crossings
• Rock outcrops
• Known areas to avoid (threatened and endangered species, poor soils)
• Known features to include (scenic overlook, waterfall).

Connect the control points and determine approximate grades along the route. Doing this helps to determine if the route is feasible, or if special structures like switchbacks or bridges are needed.

Scouting the Mapped Route. Tools to scout the routeinclude clinometer, compass, altimeter, flagging of different colors, wire or wood stakes, roll–up pocket surveyor's pole, permanent marker to make notes on the flagging, field book, probe to check soil depth to bedrock, maps, and perhaps a GPS (global positioning system) unit. The objectives of scouting or reconnaissance are to:

• Verify control points and identify additional control points not picked up on aerial photos.
• Determine if the preliminary mapped route is feasible.
• Find the best alignment that fits all objectives.
• Identify natural features to enhance the user's experience.
• Validate that the route is reasonable to construct and maintain.

Field scouting requires a sound knowledge of map and compass reading and of finding your way on the ground. Begin with the theoretical route, then try different routes until the best continuous route between the targets is found. Keep field notes of potential routes. It may be useful to hang reference flags at potential control points or features to help relocate them later. Reconnaissance is easiest with two people. One person can serve as a control point along the general route being scouted while the other searches ahead for obstacles or good locations.

Flagging the Final Route. Final flagging should wait until the best route has been determined by scouting.

Hang flags at about 3–m (10–ft) intervals. Don't scrimp. Flagging is cheap compared with the time spent locating the route.

Animals carry off flags, wind blows them down. You also obtain the best alignment with close flagging.

Flag the centerline. The steeper the sidehill, the more grade is affected by moving the line up or down the slope. Grade can be seriously compromised by leaving the construction crew too much latitude for deciding the final location.

Sometimes you have no choice but to go through a spot that ideally should have been avoided. Make sure the trail can be reasonably constructed through such spots.

One Person Flagging. Stand at a point that is to be the centerline and tie flagging at eye level. Then move about 3 to 6 m (10 to 20 ft) to the next centerline point and sight back to the last flag. When you have the desired location, tie another flag at eye level.

Two or More Persons Flagging. A person with a clinometer stands on the centerline point, directs a person ahead to the desired location, then takes an eye–level shot on that person if they are the same height. It is better to take a shot on a rod with bright flagging tied at the height of the clinometer reader's eye.

When the desired location is determined, the front person hangs a flag and moves ahead. The person with the clinometer moves up to the flag and directs the next shot. A third person can be scouting ahead for obstacles or good locations.

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