Mt. Hood Climbing Conditions Report

ICEFALL AND ROCKFALL

Recent hot weather has increased rock and icefall, especially around the Old Chute, in the past days. With unseasonably warm temperatures persisting, look for continued rock and icefall across the mountain. While it may be most common to see these objects peel off cliffs during the heat of the day, they can still dislodge in the early morning hours, especially if they’re triggered by people. Keep your head up, wear a helmet, and travel early to help reduce your exposure.

AVALANCHES

Wet loose avalanche activity has been fairly active as the snowpack continues to transition into a spring isothermal structure. Rangers have observed several human-triggered wet loose avalanches on the Wy’East Face, Cooper Spur, and West Crater Rim in recent days. One of these skier-triggered wet loose grew large and entrained a good amount of snow on the Wy’East Face. Wet snow instabilities will continue to linger as the snowpack transitions to a strong spring snowpack. These recent human-triggered avalanches are good reminders to time your climb and descent carefully to avoid steeper slopes when they’re wet, mushy, and unsupportable. 

LONG, SLIDING FALLS

Despite the high freezing levels and unseasonably warm temperatures, surfaces have been locking up each evening with the clear skies. Climbers have reported very firm snow in the Old Chute during the mornings this past week. Rangers observed one skier lose an edge and take a long fall down West Crater Rim during the mid-morning hours on Sunday, while surfaces were still firm. Fortunately, the skier left the scene uninjured, but this close call serves as a reminder to pay close attention to your aspect and timing so you can find softer, more edgable corn snow.  With continued high pressure and minimal cloud cover, expect mornings to be firm and fast this week—Bring and use your crampons and ice axe. 

Exercise normal caution for other mountain hazards, knowing they often change rapidly. The alpine environment can pose significant threats to climbers year-round. Everyone travelling on the alpine upper elevations of Mt. Hood should come prepared to observe conditions and make decisions based on those observations. Common hazards on Mt. Hood include adverse weather, avalanches, cliffs, climber congestion, glacial features and fumarole holes, icefall and rockfall, and long, sliding falls.

High pressure over the region will continue to support warm, dry conditions across the Pacific Northwest. Freezing levels will remain elevated in the 11-12,000 ft range before dropping on Friday due to a minor system, which will increase the chances of light precipitation and stronger winds over the mountain. Until Friday, you can expect warm spring weather on the mountain with overnight lows dipping into the 40s. Clear skies should help surfaces lock up during the evening hours. 

The snowpack is changing and receding rapidly with the persistent warm temperatures. On the south side, surfaces are slowly becoming more beat up and runneled from ice/rockfall and from heavy use around the crater. The Old Chute, which remains in good shape, is the most straightforward way to summit. The steep Pearly Gates routes have thin snow and ice cover, with portions melted out to dirt and rock, so they’re not a recommended summit option this year.  Skiers are still finding somewhat smooth surfaces and have been rewarded with upper mountain corn during the mid- morning hours. However, with the unusually warm days and mild nights, the surface snow is transitioning quickly and becomes sloppy by late morning. Careful timing will be needed for skiers and riders trying to ride steeper terrain on this side of the mountain.  

As you crest over to the east and north sides of the mountain, the snowpack is still trying to transition into a strong isothermal snowpack. While the surface is firm during the morning hours, dry snow may still exist beneath the surface. This set-up requires careful attention to timing and aspect to reduce chances of triggering wet avalanches during the heat of the day. Climbers and skiers have reported good conditions in the late morning around the Reid and Cooper Spur. However, crevasses and bergschrunds are beginning to open in glaciated terrain.  

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