Eagle Rock


Eagle Rock is the first large rock formation down river of Old Man and Old Woman Pinnacles on the North Umpqua River. There are four established climbs on Eagle Rock. All were established in the 1960s and 1970s. This is adventure climbing in Southwest Oregon at its best. Climbs on Eagle Rock range from 5.9 to 5.10 a PG requiring bold leads that were traditional with ’60s and ‘70s climbing. Probably the most popular route on Eagle Rock is the South Face route (II, 5.6 PG) through Paul Bunyan’s Chimney.


  • The rappel off either pinnacle requires a minimum of two 50-meter ropes.
  • A minimum of 2 ropes per party is encouraged, as pitches will generally average 140 feet in length.
  • A full rack is recommended for protecting these climbs. Placements are often limited.
  • Belays do not have fixed anchors and there are no established rappel anchors of chains.

At a Glance

Current Conditions: 05/08/2020- Open, but current conditions unknown. Be prepared to navigate downed trees and other potential hazards.
Rentals & Guides:
  • Western Oregon, volume 2 Umpqua by Greg Orton. Mountain N’ Air Publishing
Fees No
Best Season: Summer and Fall
Restrictions: Climbing is prohibited from January 1 through July 31. Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources. A seasonal restriction has been applied in this area to protect wildlife.
Closest Towns:
  • Glide (approximately 1 hr) is the nearest full service community to Old Man and Old Woman.
  • The nearest Forest Service campgrounds are Eagle Rock and Boulder Creek Campgrounds on the North Umpqua River.
  • The closest store, gasoline, and telephone phone are at the Dry Creek Store.
  • Nearest lodging and restaurant is the Steamboat Inn.
  • The nearest Ranger Station is the Toketee Ranger Station.
Water: Not available. Surface water should be treated.
Restroom: No

General Information


While the fish ladder at Soda Springs Dam is under construction, approach the base of Eagle Rock, Old Man, and Old Woman from downstream on the North Umpqua Trail. The easiest access to the Eagle Rock Parkway is to hike in from the power line access road just above Illahee Flats.



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