Youtlkut Pilars

  

Youtlkut Pillars is a tall rock face of columnar dacite located at an elevation of 4,000 feet between the North Umpqua and Tiller Ranger Districts on the Umpqua National Forest. It is located about half way between Acker Rock and Glide. While there are 16 recorded routes at Youtlkut ranging from 5.6 to 5.9, there are many more cracks in this formation that are climbable but receive little attention. There are fixed anchors at the top of routes that offer easy access for toproping. Popular routes at Youtlkut are Chinquapin (5.6), Almost Pollock (5.8), Double Crack (5.6-5.7), and The Dime (5.9).

Gear

  • Tope roping requires a minimum of three 15 to 20-foot long slings at top to bring your top anchors from the bolted anchors to the edge above climbs.
  • Rappelling and toproping required two ropes.
  • A full complement of cams is recommended for lead climbing. Before lead climbing, access the soundness of the route you are about to climb, as columns have been known to shift from one season to the next. 

At a Glance

Current Conditions: 05/08/2020- Open, but current conditions unknown. Be prepared to navigate downed trees and other potential hazards.
Rentals & Guides:
  • Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2 Umpqua by Greg Orton. Mountain N’ Air Publishing.
  • Rock Climbing Oregon. Adam Bolf and Benjamin Ruef. Flacon Guides, Morris Book Publishing.
Fees No
Open Season: undefined
Best Season: Late Spring, Summer and Fall
Closest Towns:
  • Glide (approximately 3/4 hr) is the nearest full service community to Youtlkut Pillars.
  • The nearest Forest Service campgrounds are at Hemlock Lake and Lake in the Woods Campgrounds.
  • There is a dispersed campsite in the trees and rustic outhouse located across the road from the pillars offering free camping (this facility was initially funded with a grant from the Access Fund).
  • The nearest Ranger Station is the North Umpqua Ranger Station in Glide.
Water: Not available. Surface water should be treated.
Restroom: No

General Information

General Notes:
  • WARNING! Be aware that columns can shift from one season to the next. Column stability should be accessed with each visit, particularly in the spring time.
  • A scramble trail around the left side of the pillars from the road to the top is very steep, with loose rocks.
  • Fixed anchors are available on top for toproping. However, they have been placed about six feet back away from edge requiring extra long slings to bring your top anchors into position above your route.
  • WARNING! Toproping and rappels require two ropes.
  • Wildlife Restrictions

Directions:

Approximatley 1.5 hours from east of Roseburg.

From Roseburg, OR take OR Hwy 138 E/NE Diamond Lake blvd to the town of Glide. From Glide drive south along Little River Road (County road 17A to 17B0, later becoming Forest Service Road #27) to Lake in the Woods Campground. From Lake in the Woods continue south on FS Road #27 turning left onto FS Road #2715. Stay on FS#2715 until you come to FS Road #230. Turn left on FS Road #230 and follow it to Youtlkut Pillars.


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Location

 
  Elevation : 
Unknown

 



https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/umpqua/recarea/?recid=75100