Old Man and Old Woman Pinnacles

Area Status: Temporarily Closed

Approximately 280 feet in height, Old Man Pinnacle stands with Old Woman as dominant features above the North Umpqua River. Between the two, there are four established routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.11c. Dilley’s Delight (5.9, approx. 160 ft, trad) is one of the more popular climbs on the Umpqua, while The Prize (5.11c, approx. 260 ft, sport) is considered by many to be an Oregon classic. It is also not unusual to see climbers making a Tyrolean between Old Man and Old Woman.

Gear

  • The rappel off either pinnacle requires a minimum of two 50-meter ropes.
  • When rappelling from on top Old Man into the uphill notch, be aware that strong afternoon winds are the norm.
  • Rappelling by way of The Prize is not recommended without aid gear for climbing rope. The route is overhanging enough that one can easily miss a rappel anchor and become suspended away from the rock. 

At a Glance

Current Conditions: Under closure order due to 2024 fires: Umpqua National Forest - Alerts & Closures (usda.gov)
Rentals & Guides:
  • Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2 Umpqua by Greg Orton. Mountain N’ Air Publishing.
Best Season: Spring, Summer and Fall
Closest Towns:
  • Glide (approximately 1 hr) is the nearest full service community to Old Man and Old Woman.
  • The nearest Forest Service campgrounds are Eagle Rock and Boulder Creek Campgrounds on the North Umpqua River.
  • The closest store, gasoline, and telephone phone are at the Dry Creek Store.
  • Nearest lodging and restaurant is the Steamboat Inn.
  • The nearest Ranger Station is the Toketee Ranger Station.
Water: Not available. Surface water should be treated.
Restroom: No

General Information

Directions:

While the fish ladder at Soda Springs Dam is under construction approach the base of Eagle Rock, Old Man, and Old Woman from downstream on the North Umpqua Trail.


Activities

Rock Climbing

  • Approximately 280 feet in height, Old Man Pinnacle stands with Old Woman as dominant features above the North Umpqua River. 

Alerts & Warnings

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Recreation Areas

Recreation Activities

Location

 
  Elevation : 
Unknown