Redman's Tooth Climbing Area

Area Status: Open

The Redmans Tooth climbing area sits on a ridge above the confluence of the North Umpqua and Steamboat Creek. There are six pinnacles from about 80 to 130 feet in height with 10 routes that range from 5.6 to 5.11a. Protection is a mixture of fixed anchors and trad gear. Trees often block access up FS-200 road requiring climbers to make a short hike to the base of the rocks.

Gear

  • A 50-meter rope is adequate for all routes in this area.
  • A minimum of 2 ropes per party is encouraged, as pitches will generally average 140 feet in length.
  • The average bolt spacing is roughly 10-feet with occasional opportunities for supplementing with gear.
  • Huevos (5.11a or 5.10a, A1) requires a rack of cams (small nuts) for the first two pitches.
  • There are no chains at belay anchors on routes at Redmans Tooth, so bring extra webbing.
  • Rappels may require two ropes on Cracked spire and Buddha’s Tooth. 

At a Glance

Rentals & Guides:
  • Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2 Umpqua by Greg Orton. Mountain N’ Air Publishing
Fees: No
Best Season: Spring, Summer and Fall
Closest Towns:
  • Glide (approximately 3/4 hr) is the nearest full service community to Redmans Tooth.
  • The nearest Forest Service campground is Island Campground on the North Umpqua River.
  • In addition, there are numerous dispersed camp opportunities on the ridge near Redmans Tooth.
  • The closest store, gasoline, and telephone phone are at the Dry Creek Store.
  • Nearest telephone, lodging, and restaurant is the Steamboat Inn at the confluence of Steamboat Creek and the North Umpqua River.
  • The nearest Ranger Station is the North Umpqua Ranger Station in Glide.
Water: Not available. Surface water should be treated.
Restroom: No

General Information

General Notes:
  • There are no wildlife seasonal restrictions at Redmans Tooth.
  • There are no chains at belays so bring extra webbing.
  • Rappels may require two ropes.

Directions:

From Roseburg, OR take OR HWY 138 E/NE Diamond Lake Blvd.  Continue until you are approximately 1 mile past Steamboat Junciont to Forest Service Road #4713.  This will be the first road to your left after passing Island Campground. After turning onto FS Road #4713 continue for approximately 3 miles until you come to the #200 spur road on your right. About .5 up the #200-spur road there will be a sharp turn. Bucktooth Tooth Spire will come into view once you have rounded the turn.

 

Heading south from Steamboat Falls Campground and Forest Service Raod #3810 take FS Road #4713 approximately 3 miles to the 200-spur road. (left) FS Road #4713 originates from North Umpqua Highway 138.


Activities

Rock Climbing

  • The Redmans Tooth climbing area sits on a ridge above the confluence of the North Umpqua and Steamboat Creek. 

Alerts & Warnings

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Recreation Areas

Recreation Activities

Location

 
  Elevation : 
Unknown