McKinley Rock Climbing Area
Approximately 350 feet in height, McKinley Rock has a broad open face with a dome-like appearance. There are nine established routes on McKinley ranging from 5.7 to 5.10d. Two of the most popular routes are HangTen (5.10a) and Testosterone Monkey (5.10a).
McKinley Rock sits at the top of the Steamboat Creek watershed on the North Umpqua Ranger District. Access to the base of the rock requires a one mile hike in on the Long Ridge Trail. Reconstruction of this historic trail and signs directing climbers to the Long Ridge trailhead were funded in partnership with the Umpqua National Forest and an Access Fund grant.
Gear:
- A 60-meter rope is recommended for all routes in this area.
- A minimum of 2 ropes per party is encouraged, as pitches will generally average 150 feet in length.
- All routes, except the first pitch of Testosterone Monkey, are protected with fixed anchors.
- The average bolt spacing is roughly 10-feet with few if any opportunities for supplementing with gear.
- Testosterone Monkey requires a rack of cams (1 to 3.5 inches) for the first 100 feet.
- There are no chains at belay anchors on McKinley. However, there are now chains for rappelling from the register on top (four rappels down south face using a 60-meter rope).
General Information
- Note that climbing in August can be very warm on McKinley, bring lots of water.
- There are no wildlife seasonal restrictions on McKinley Rock.
- There are no chains at belays so bring extra webbing.
- The first 30-feet are often mossy especially if still moist.
- Bring a headlamp; the trail can be difficult to follow in the dark without lighting.
No
Dogs are allowed on leash.
- Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2 Umpqua by Greg Orton. Mountain N’ Air Publishing
Address: 18782 North Umpqua Highway Glide, OR 97443
Phone: 541-496-3532
Hours: Wednesday and Friday, 8:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. (Closed on federal holidays)
Getting There
Elevation
Unknown
Directions
McKinley Rock is in Lane County, about 1.5 hours northeast of Roseburg, OR.
From Oakridge, OR, follow Forest Road 23 around the west side of Hills Creek Reservoir. From the south end of the reservoir, continue another 5 miles turning right onto Forest Road 2127. Follow Forest Road 2127 for less than 3 miles, turning right onto Forest Road 5850. In just under 2 miles on Forest Road 5850, turn left onto Forest Road 38. Drive Forest Road 38 (Steamboat Creek Road) to Forest Road 3821 (Cedar Creek).
From Roseburg, OR, take Interstate 5 to Exit-124. Take OR Highway 138 east / northest Diamond Lake Boulevard. Continue on OR 138 through Glide, OR. After passing Steamboat Inn, turn left onto Forest Road 38 (Steamboat Creek Road). Turn left onto Forest Road 3821 (Cedar Creek Road). There is a Longridge Trail / McKinley Rock sign at the junction.
You will come to a Y-intersection where Forest Road 3825 junctions to the right. Travel right onto Forest Road 3825. As you round a sharp corner, there will be a “trail ahead” sign to McKinley Rock and a small side road.
Facility and Amenity Information
Restrooms
Restrooms are not available at this site.
Water
Potable water is not available at this site.
