Climbing and Caving
Several mountain and rock climbing opportunities await on the Umpqua National Forest.
Mountain Climbing
Mountain Climbing
"National forest mountain climbing" refers to the activity of climbing mountains located within a US National Forest, offering various levels of difficulty across different regions, with popular climbing areas across our national forest and grasslands. Always check local regulations and permit requirements before climbing in any national forest.
- Variety of terrains:
- National forests often have diverse climbing options ranging from beginner-friendly crags to technical alpine routes on high peaks.
- Permits required:
- Many national forests require climbing permits for certain areas, especially for popular mountains.
- Weather considerations:
- Always check the weather forecast before climbing, as conditions can change rapidly in mountainous areas.
- Safety precautions:
- Proper gear, knowledge of climbing techniques, and awareness of potential hazards like rockfall and avalanche risk are crucial.
- Prepare for self-rescue and extended stays.
- Leave your itinerary and estimated time of return with a third party.
- Go up slowly to acclimate to the higher elevation.
- Increase fluid intake and carbohydrate consumption.
- Avoid alcohol consumption.
- Responsible climbing
- Follow best practices to avoid damaging natural and cultural resources.
- Follow the Wilderness Act.
Rock Climbing
Rock Climbing
- Rock climbing opportunities can be found on the forest. As the popularity of this sport increases, it is becoming more important that everyone help prevent resource damage. Removable hardware and temporary anchors are preferred. Pack it in; pack it out. Climbers are responsible for making sure they are on public land open to climbing. Remember, your safety is your responsibility when recreating on National Forest System lands.
- Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
- No new climbing routes using fixed anchors are allowed in certain areas. However, maintenance or replacement of existing approved fixed anchors is allowed by non-mechanized means.
- Contact your local ranger station or forest for more information.
Search for Climbing and Caving Opportunities
Acker Rock Climbing Area
Site Temporarily Closed
Acker Rock is located on the Tiller Ranger District of the Umpqua National Forest. There are 20 established routes on Acker that range in difficulty of 5.5 to 5.10d. Some of the most popular of these…
Deer Leap Climbing Area
Site Open
Deer Leap is a large andesitic columnar rock formation visible from Toketee Schoolhouse above the North Umpqua River. There is one established climb on Deer Leap (III, 5.9, A1). The route is…
Eagle Rock Climbing Area
Site Temporarily Closed
This is adventure climbing in Southwest Oregon at its best! Eagle Rock is the first large rock formation down river of Old Man and Old Woman Pinnacles on the North Umpqua River. There are four…
Limpy Rock Climbing Area
Site Open
The Limpy Rock climbing area consists of three primary large rock outcrops. The lower middle outcrop is the largest at approximately 400 feet tall. Established climbing routes are graded as 5.10s.Â
McKinley Rock Climbing Area
Site Closed
Approximately 350 feet in height, McKinley Rock has a broad open face with a dome-like appearance. There are nine established routes on McKinley ranging from 5.7 to 5.10d. Two of the most popular…
Old Man and Old Woman Pinnacles Climbing Area
Site Open
Approximately 280 feet in height, Old Man Pinnacle stands with Old Woman as dominant features above the North Umpqua River. Between the two, there are four established routes ranging from 5.4 to…
Redman's Tooth Climbing Area
Site Open
The Redmans Tooth climbing area sits on a ridge above the confluence of the North Umpqua and Steamboat Creek. There are six pinnacles from about 80 to 130 feet in height with 10 routes that range…
Youtlkut Pilars Climbing Area
Site Closed
Youtlkut Pillars is a tall rock face of columnar dacite located at an elevation of 4,000 feet between the North Umpqua and Tiller Ranger Districts on the Umpqua National Forest. It is located about…