Eagle Rock Climbing Area
This is adventure climbing in Southwest Oregon at its best! Eagle Rock is the first large rock formation down river of Old Man and Old Woman Pinnacles on the North Umpqua River. There are four established climbs on Eagle Rock, all established in the 1960s and 1970s. Protection ratings range from PG to PG-13, and the climbs may not be suitable to newer climbers or those transitioning from indoor to outdoor climbing.
Three of the climbs on Eagle Rock range from 5.9 to 5.10. Probably the most popular route on Eagle Rock is the South Face route (II, 5.6 PG) through Paul Bunyan’s Chimney.
Gear:
- The rappel off either pinnacle requires a minimum of two 50-meter ropes.
- A minimum of 2 ropes per party is encouraged, as pitches will generally average 140 feet in length.
- A full rack is recommended for protecting these climbs. Placements are often limited.
- Belays do not have fixed anchors and there are no established rappel anchors of chains.
General Information
Climbing is prohibited from January 1 through July 31. Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources. A seasonal restriction has been applied in this area to protect wildlife.
- Western Oregon, volume 2 Umpqua by Greg Orton. Mountain N’ Air Publishing
Address: 18782 North Umpqua Highway Glide, OR 97443
Phone: 541-496-3532
Hours: Wednesday and Friday, 8:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. (Closed on federal holidays)
Getting There
Elevation
2,033 ft
Directions
From Roseburg take Diamond Lake Blvd to follow Highway 138 to milepost-50 (Marsters Bridge trail head of North Umpqua Trail). Follow the trail up river to the Illahee Flat trail jct. Hike Illahee Flat trail uphill until it comes close to one of the power-line access roads. Scramble uphill to the power-line access road and follow it uphill until it ties into the main access road that follows the power-lines to the uphill saddle ridge that takes you down to the Parkway Saddle and ledge on the north side of Eagle Rock. Follow the ledge right around the west side to access Paul Bunyan's Chimney route.
Facility and Amenity Information
Restrooms
Restrooms are not available at this site.
Water
Potable water is not available at this site.
Picnic Tables
Picnic tables are not available at this site.
