Climbing Mt. Hood

We issue climbing conditions reports Thursday and Monday through early July.

June 16, 2025

Upper mountain travel remains defined by late season conditions, despite the date on the calendar. Enough snow does remain for summit attempts, and when the weather cooperates, summit climbers will likely find efficient travel conditions with secure crampon grip on heavily textured melt/freeze snow. Lots of loose rock, which continues to melt out, will keep rockfall potential elevated the rest of this season, and remining ice accumulations keeps icefall on the list of these overhead hazards which all late-season climbers must manage - start early, wear a helmet, and minimize your time in rockfall and icefall zones.

WEATHER NOTES

Moderate late spring temperatures are on tap for this week and might be slightly warmer than the cool recent weekend. Active weather, especially Monday and Wednesday, might produce periods of cloud cover and light precipitation, but should mostly bring moderate to strong wind. Forecast freezing levels around 12,000’ could drop approaching the weekend when a cooler and wetter weather system potentially arrives. You should always check National Weather Service short range forecasts just before you ascend, but it’s particularly valuable to prevent weather surprises this week.

SNOW AND ROUTE CONDITIONS

Our current stretch of spring-like weather, not too hot or too cold, hasn’t changed snow conditions significantly since the heat spell of a week ago. Snow does continue to melt and recede daily, but cool nights should bring solid refreezes every night this week. Most snow surfaces are heavily melt textured, and in addition to these sun cups, rockfall debris and deeply gouged sluff channels can be found downslope of most steep, rocky areas. This snow is generally good for those on foot, offering secure crampon purchase, but ski and snowboard quality continues to deteriorate.
The Old Chute area remains the path of least resistance to the summit, though with many route variations melting out, nearly all south side climbers are funneling into Old Chute proper. The narrow “catwalk” section of the summit ridge, immediately above the top of the Old Chute proper on route to the summit, is dirt and rock. Take great care to not dislodge rocks on climbers below when walking this ridge, and when below, stay vigilant for this elevated potential of climber-induced rockfall.

MOUNTAIN HAZARDS

Year-round, many hazards can pose significant threat to climbers. 

Rockfall and icefall: Plenty of exposed loose rock will continue to melt out and increase rockfall risk through summer, and currently, ice accumulations remain and could produce icefall. These overhead and upslope hazards tend to increase through each day with warming, but rockfall becomes harder to predict when large areas of dry, loose rock are exposed, and upslope climbers can dislodge projectiles at any hour. A summit attempt in late season conditions involves greater rockfall risk than earlier in the year, when snow covers most loose rock. It’s a crucial time to consider if you’re willing to accept this risk, and if you are, wear a helmet and move quickly through areas with loose rock or ice above you.

Long, sliding falls: Cool overnight temperatures this week means you’ll likely ascend and descend hard, frozen snow. Crampons that fit well on stiff-soled mountaineering boot will provide good grip on this snow when refrozen. Coupled with steep snow travel skills and an ice axe or two, most climbers should be able to prevent a long, sliding fall. Consider your preparedness and ability to not fall when approaching any steep, firm snow slope.

Glacial features and fumarole holes: Open cracks and holes across the mountain may seem easy to avoid, but others remain bridged with winter snow. Many more of those bridges will melt and fail as the summer progresses. Know your route and come prepared with glacier travel skills and gear if attempting a glaciated route. South side climbers can avoid glacial features with careful route finding but need to take care to avoid fumarole melt holes in the Devil’s Kitchen and Hot Rocks areas, around 10,000’ to 10,500’ elevations. Watch for any holes in the snow and give them a wide berth, as they’re probably much larger than they look from the surface.

Climber congestion: Route options will continue to become limited as snow melts. Even on a weekday, it’s common to find many people trying to ascend and descend the same place at the same time. This is particularly true for the Old Chute area. Start early in attempt to beat the crowds, and if you do find congestion, consider the increased potential for overhead hazards and how long you’ll be stuck waiting in the rockfall zone as you decide whether to proceed uphill.

Avalanches: Weather can produce unstable snow conditions any month of the year. A strong ability to evaluate snowpack stability and choose appropriate terrain, along with an avalanche beacon, probe, and shovel, are often necessary for reasonably safe upper mountain travel. Avalanche forecasts from the Northwest Avalanche Center ended in April but their website offers valuable public observations and weather station data year-round.

A 3-day climbing permit is required for all people traveling above 9,500 ft. elevation. Timberline Trail, Forest trailheads, and all of the ski areas on Mt. Hood are below this elevation and do not require a climbing permit. The permit is required year-round.